Up What's a Cyclone Building Ducting Performance

Unfortunately, I did not think to take pictures of the initial construction stages (i.e. marking up, cutting, rolling and joining the Cyclone).   However, here's what I do have.  Check out Bill Pentz's site for full details (Build Cyclone).

Marking out and Cutting

I followed Bill's spreadsheet and marked up the steel with a marking pen then cut the lot out with a pair of Aviation Snips.  This took a while but was not that onerous.

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(Pic from Bill's site)

Forming the Cone and top Drum

I placed a piece of 100mm PCV held between two workmates and then hand rolled/formed the curves. The only folding is the inlet which is rectangular. I did this with the old hammer and a block of square edged hardwood.

Joining it up

I put liquid nails on the joints and then pop riveted them together and then placed flashing tape over the joins just to be sure it was air tight. The pop rivets are put in "back the front" i.e. the flat head is on the inside of the cyclone. This is to make it smoother on the inside so as to minimise any air flow disturbance.

With the air ramp, I had a great deal of difficulty getting it into position on the Outlet Pipe (small one that goes inside the top Drum) as it kept twisting/warping.  I just preserved and got it riveted and caulk eventually.

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Almost done with the metal work!

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Sealed up and ready to attach to it to the Blower

The Blower

I mounted the Blower Unit on some pieces of Ply with a piece of alum. angle for strength.

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Mounting the Blower on its Base Board

Installing the Cyclone

In the old workshop, the Cyclone was mounted inside the Workshop as I had no other choice.  Not that there is anything really wrong with that, but, in my New Shed, I decided to position it outside to minimise the Noise and also making empting the Drum easier.  I installed a small Hood to keep out the elements (must trim that top sheet sometime).

Cyclone mounted on outside
Done!

Static Electricity

What have done in regard to Static Electricity? - Nothing. I have read and read and read about it and from all that I decided to do nothing. The only thing that may happen is I might get a zap from the PVC. What WONT happen is the dust will explode or catch fire due to static. The dangers of dust catching fire are in the bin due to spontaneous combustion and that is generally only if some moisture is present (i.e.. turning wet wood) or a piece of metal (which strikes the impeller causing a spark) or a cig butt getting sucked up. So, empty the bins/bags regularly. This goes for those Bag units as well. Actually, it goes more so as a metal strike is more likely with Bag units as the Dust/crap goes through the impeller first. Note that it is not very likely to happen but can.

Measuring Power Consumption

I got the Clamp Amp meter attachment from Jaycar a while back for $35. It suits digital multimeters which I already had. (http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVi...eMax=&SUBCATID=)

I did a couple of measurements and the motor is running just under its 7.5amp rating.

Cost

(In Australian Dollars)

$30 for sheet metal .6mm (24 gauge I think)
$50 for Pop riveter and rivets
$25 for flashing tape
$50 for Plywood/MDF
$50 for other bits (screws, tape, etc)
$0 for plans from http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/CyclonePlan.cfm (scroll to the bottom) or download an old version I have on my site..
$?? for lots of time construction.gif (202 bytes)
$205 sub-total
$340 Hare & Forbes Economy 2hp Bag type collector - for motor/fan - toss the rest
$545 Total

I do want to upgrade to Pleated Filter (Torit style) Cartridge and possibly a bigger motor and better fan in the distant future but this will get expensive considering this is a hobby.  After you build it, you will need ducting of course. PVC 150mm sewer pipe works great and you can use the light (cheap) Storm & Drainage grade. (See my Ducting page)

Oh, I forgot to add in the cost of Roses for bribes to get Shop time. rotfl.gif (2089 bytes)

Summary

The Cyclone and Ducting work as well and even better than I thought it would. I have a few problems to sort out (i.e. Mitre Saw) but in the main it works fine. Over time I will make the connections all 6" to the big machines and it will get even better (not that it is not good now).

One of the nice things is not dragging around the old 1hp units and plugging in the pipe. I just open the gate and make sawdust - well I think I do but I don't see any.

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