Unfortunately, I did not think to take pictures of the initial construction stages (i.e. marking up, cutting, rolling and joining the Cyclone). However, here's what I do have. Check out Bill Pentz's site for full details (Build Cyclone).
I followed Bill's spreadsheet and marked up the steel with a marking pen then cut the lot out with a pair of Aviation Snips. This took a while but was not that onerous.
I placed a piece of 100mm PCV held between two workmates and then hand rolled/formed the curves. The only folding is the inlet which is rectangular. I did this with the old hammer and a block of square edged hardwood.
I put liquid nails on the joints and then pop riveted them together and then placed flashing tape over the joins just to be sure it was air tight. The pop rivets are put in "back the front" i.e. the flat head is on the inside of the cyclone. This is to make it smoother on the inside so as to minimise any air flow disturbance.
With the air ramp, I had a great deal of difficulty getting it into position on the Outlet Pipe (small one that goes inside the top Drum) as it kept twisting/warping. I just preserved and got it riveted and caulk eventually.
Sealed up and ready to attach to it to the Blower
I mounted the Blower Unit on some pieces of Ply with a piece of alum. angle for strength.
Mounting the Blower on its Base Board
In the old workshop, the Cyclone was mounted inside the Workshop as I had no other choice. Not that there is anything really wrong with that, but, in my New Shed, I decided to position it outside to minimise the Noise and also making empting the Drum easier. I installed a small Hood to keep out the elements (must trim that top sheet sometime).
What have done in regard to Static Electricity? - Nothing. I have read and read and read about it and from all that I decided to do nothing. The only thing that may happen is I might get a zap from the PVC. What WONT happen is the dust will explode or catch fire due to static. The dangers of dust catching fire are in the bin due to spontaneous combustion and that is generally only if some moisture is present (i.e.. turning wet wood) or a piece of metal (which strikes the impeller causing a spark) or a cig butt getting sucked up. So, empty the bins/bags regularly. This goes for those Bag units as well. Actually, it goes more so as a metal strike is more likely with Bag units as the Dust/crap goes through the impeller first. Note that it is not very likely to happen but can.
I got the Clamp Amp meter attachment from Jaycar a while back for $35. It suits digital multimeters which I already had. (http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVi...eMax=&SUBCATID=)
I did a couple of measurements and the motor is running just under its 7.5amp rating.
$30 for sheet metal .6mm (24 gauge I think)
$50 for Pop riveter and rivets
$25 for flashing tape
$50 for Plywood/MDF
$50 for other bits (screws, tape, etc)
$0 for plans from http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/CyclonePlan.cfm (scroll to the bottom) or download an old version I have on my site..
$?? for lots of time
$340 Hare & Forbes Economy 2hp Bag type collector - for motor/fan - toss the rest
I do want to upgrade to Pleated Filter (Torit style) Cartridge and possibly a bigger motor and better fan in the distant future but this will get expensive considering this is a hobby. After you build it, you will need ducting of course. PVC 150mm sewer pipe works great and you can use the light (cheap) Storm & Drainage grade. (See my Ducting page)
Oh, I forgot to add in the cost of Roses for bribes to get Shop time.
The Cyclone and Ducting work as well and even better than I thought it would. I have a
few problems to sort out (i.e. Mitre Saw) but in the main it works fine. Over time I will
make the connections all 6" to the big machines and it will get even better (not that
it is not good now).
One of the nice things is not dragging around the old 1hp units and plugging in the pipe. I just open the gate and make sawdust - well I think I do but I don't see any.